Weights

The net weight gain for the civic will be about 150 lbs. Here is how it breaks down. I took the ICE engine into recycling today and it was 130 lbs. for a grand total of $2.60. That brings the grand total for recycling to about $8.50. Wow!

Removed
93 lbs Misc iron
27 lbs Alum
10 lbs radiator (brass)
130 Engine iron
40 lbs. misc garbage (approx.)
324 lbs total

Added
82 lbs. elec. motor
360 lbs. 6 group 27 batteries
40 lbs. misc. cables and parts
10 lbs. coupler and adapter)
472 lbs. total

168 lbs. net gain

Adapter Plate

Jim and I spent an hour drilling the holes in the adapter plate. I marked the hole centers with a punch directly over a print out from the design. I'm still trying to work out how to cut a 3 inch hole in the center. The motor arrives soon so I can remeasure the mounting holes and try them in the adapter template.

http://www.evmotors.com.au/products/download/L91-4003.pdf

Motor Coupler

This is a Lovejoy L110 jaw style shaft coupler body ($44 from http://grainger.com). I went with the L110 because the outside diameter (OD) is 3.32 inches and the slot on the flywheel is 3.1 inches. It will have to be trimmed slightly to fit. The L100 is only 2.54 inches so it would not have been wide enough to fit the flywheel holes.

The The center bore is 1.125 with a .25 x .125 keyway, which matches the L91 motor shaft. It has 3 "teeth" that would normally mesh with another coupler on the drive shaft. I'm planning on cutting the teeth off and drilling and tapping holes to match the flywheel. The flywheel will need to be skimmed down to fit inside the adapter plate in order to retain the "magic number", which I measured as .665 inches. The design program shows the magic number as .78 inches.

Coupler and Adapter plate

This is a lovejoy L110 connector for the coupler and a sheet of 6061 Aluminum for the adapter plate. I've printed out a plan from http://metricmind.com and traced it onto a plywood sheet for a mockup of the adapter plate. With the holes drilled, it only need a little trimming around the bellhousing mount and the transaxle. So I started in on the aluminum, which I got from a local welding shop for $75. I noticed a few metal shops on ebay selling the same thing for in the neighborhood of $15 plus shipping.

To cut the plate I used a hand held electric jigsaw and a 24TPI (tooth per inch) metal blade. The 24TPI blade created a really smooth cut and WD-40 worked great for cutting oil, very light. A friend has a drill press to cut the holes and center hole.

Nice and clean

After a trip to the car wash for degreasing this is the hole where the engine used to be. Now the fun part can begin.

"Yet knowing how way leads on to way,
I doubted if I should ever come back."

Robert Frost

Out with the old

This is the old ICE engine stripped down. I was able to lift it by myself so it can't be much over 100 lbs. We used a cable winch (come-a-long) to hoist it away from the transmission. Notice the 2 inch hole on the lower right side of the block. I guess a rebuild of this isn't going to happen anytime soon.

Removal of all the gas parts.

We finally got the engine out. The clutch and flywheel are still on the engine. There is a huge hole in the side of the engine block. I guess that's why the car was so cheap.

Tomorrow is degreasing the engine compartment and cleaning up the interior. I would have degreased the engine before beginning. Also, I would have removed the belt pulley first, which would have made getting the engine out easier.

With a little help...