Stringing the cables

Even though it probably isn't needed I ran the cables, including 2 2/0 battery cables an an extension cord for the chargers, through this 1 1/2 inch black pvc pipe under the chassy where the exhaust pipe was. The pipe should protect the cables from dirt, rocks etc. It was cold out so a hair dryer help get the pipe to fit. It is strapped down with 2 hole straps and self drilling screws. All the parts for under $10 so a minor cost to protect the cable.

Auxiliary Battery

The donor didn't have a starter battery so I needed an battery or DC to DC converter to run the lights, radio, and supply power to the main contactor and controller relay. Since a DC to DC converter runs about $225 I opted for this 33 amp hr bat at $79.99. Adding up the basics, lights, radio, fan, misc. "on" circuits at about 200 - 300 watts. So, a 24 amp hr battery would have worked but this 33 amp hour AGM was the same price and only a little bigger. It fits nicely in to the width of the Group 51 original battery slot, but is a little shorter.

The aux. battery charger is a Black and Decker 2 amp float charger from HomeDepot for $18. I'm not 100% sure that a normal charger will work with AGM because the full charge voltage is over 14. A little more research might be needed in that. Also, a strap is needed because the original battery mount isn't short enough.

Battery Cables

Parts for the battery cables:

• The Ace® Cable Cutter Plier is $15.49.
• Rachem shrink tubing from amazon $9+shipping
  
• Noalox anti-corrosion joint compound from homedepot $7
  
• A hammer style crimper from ebay around $20

It worked better to pound the cables ends on the cement floor rather than the work bench. I used a propane torch to shrink the tubing.

Motor mount

As you can see, I left the existing motor mount in place and just added a vertical bar, with 2 additional bars you can't see, down to the motor. The bar and bolts where about $6. The mount is on a rubber shock absorber and pivots horizontally to the motor. Since the motor assembly is about a third the weight of the original motor it should be enough to support it on rough roads. It won't have a huge amount of torque support. So it will be important to keep an eye on the adapter plate motor mounts.

Task List

It is really nice to work on a project with no deadline. But just to keep track of the completion and pace of the project I created a task list. Sorry no gant charts for this one.

PREP (30 hours)

• Tow or drive donor
• Degrease engine compartment
• Drain fluids (gas, radiator, transmission (optional))
• Remove engine and non-reusable parts*
• Remove gas tank and exhaust system
• Misc: Tires, body work, electrical repairs, clean up the car, title and plates, tranny oil
• Recycle parts, the aluminum and brass radiators are worth more than the raw iron
  

MOTOR MOUNT (50 hours)

• Order Motor and/or kit
• Adapter plate, cut and drill, counter bore holes *
• Build Spacers, cut and drill *
• Coupler drill, tap and cut *
• New flywheel bearing
• Build starter (hole) cover
• Buy nuts, bolts, and washers
• Grind motor bolts heads
• Install the motor
• Build motor mount to existing ICE mount

BATTERIES (est. 15 hours, 30 actual)

• Buy batteries
• Buy and wire chargers and connectors
• Build cable ends
• Pull cables
• Build battery racks (cut and weld angle iron) *
• Mount battery racks
• Build battery boxes (acid proof for floodies) *
• Strap batteries to racks
• Wire together the high voltage
  

ELECTRICAL (10 hours)

• Junction box assemble and wire *
• Buy Aux. Battery
• Buy Aux. charger
• Potentiometer install and wire
• Buy Controller Relay and wire
• Mount and wire controller
• Mount and wire junction box

MISCELLANEOUS (est. 10 hours)

• Vacuum pump and switch install *
• Build and mount vacuum chamber
• Heater installation *
  

TOTAL (est. 115 hours, 130 actual)

Notes:

• * These items are the most complicated and may take more time.
• Building the adapter plate and spacers was by far the most time consuming task. Buying these or having them machined would have saved me about 44 hours. I'll remember that for next time.
• Choosing a donor with everything working and the engine already removed would save another 30 hours. This, however, would be pretty rare.
• This schedule does not include design or research time, which has been a lot of hours on the internet.
  

Batteries!!

Ron from Eco Auto sold me 5 Discover EV31A-A AGM 100 Amp Hr batteries. AGM are Absorbed Glass Mat, which are spill proof and sealed. This is a big plus because they won't leak acid or gas into the passenger area and won't require building an acid proof box. They are Group 31 which are only about an 3/4 of an inch longer than the Group 27 Walmart batteries I was originally planning on. Also these are 72 lbs. compared to the 62 lbs. I had planned on. So, an extra 60 lbs., which shouldn't effect performance too much. About like having a full tank of gas.

Check out the "real" electric cars at http://www.ecoautoinc.com/.

Battery Racks

These racks are 1 1/2 x 1/8 angle iron, which was $24 for a 20 footer. I cut the pieces with a jigsaw with a bi-metal blade. Marcus showed me how and let me use his wire feed welder. I know I won't be charging for welding anytime soon. The welds aren't pretty but I think they will hold. I'll paint the racks to prevent rust and bolt them to the floor where the spare tire was. The smaller rack I'll weld to the frame in the front where the radiator used to be. I'll put an 1/8 inch piece of packing board on the bottom of the racks to help level them off, since the welds are high. Four bats in the back and 2 in the front. The next step is to pull the cables then put the batteries in.